Naturally Dyed Yarn: Simple Color from the Earth

Naturally Dyed Yarn: Simple Color from the Earth

Natural dyeing always seemed like something that required mysterious knowledge and hard-to-find materials. Then I started saving onion skins and avocado pits and realized I'd been overlooking one of the most rewarding fiber arts projects hiding right in my kitchen scraps. Using items like onion skins, avocado pits, hibiscus flowers, or turmeric, you can transform plain yarn into richly hued skeins that reflect the tones of the natural world. The process is meditative, low-waste, and beginner-friendly with no harsh chemicals needed.

Is This Project For Me?

If you're curious about natural dyeing but don't want to hunt down exotic plants or invest in expensive supplies, this is perfect for you. You want colors you can't buy in stores and love the idea of creating something beautiful from what you'd normally throw away. This works whether you're dyeing yarn for a specific project or just experimenting with colors for future use. You can start with kitchen scraps and basic equipment you already own. If you love the idea of sustainable crafting that connects you to traditional methods while reducing waste, this belongs on your list. Check out the free printable Fiber Arts Quick Guide below.

Get The Guide

Ready to stop feeling lost every time you pick up needles or thread? This guide covers the core techniques, tools, and terms for knitting, crocheting, weaving, and simple sewing. No more guessing, just clear steps and beginner checklists so you can actually start (and finish) projects you love.


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Naturally Dyed Yarn

Naturally Dyed Yarn

Using items like onion skins, avocado pits, hibiscus flowers, or turmeric, you can transform bare yarn into richly hued skeins that reflect the tones of the natural world. The process is meditative, low-waste, and beginner-friendly no harsh chemicals needed.
Time: 24 Hours Level: Beginner Category: Dyeing

Materials

  • 1 skein of natural fiber yarn (wool and cotton work best)
  • Onion skins (yellow or red)
  • Avocado pits and skins
  • Dried hibiscus petals
  • Turmeric root or powder
  • Black Beans
  • 1 stainless steel or enamel pot (don’t use aluminum)
  • Water
  • Optional: mordant such as alum or vinegar to help the dye adhere and last longer

Steps

  1. Place your skein in warm water and let it soak while you prepare the dye bath. This helps the fibers absorb the color evenly.
  2. Simmer your chosen dye material in water for 30–60 minutes. The longer the simmer, the deeper the color.
  3. Gently squeeze excess water from your yarn and add it to the dye pot. Simmer on low for 30–45 minutes. Avoid boiling, especially for wool, to prevent felting.
  4. Let the yarn cool in the pot to allow full saturation. Rinse gently in cool water and hang to dry away from direct sunlight.

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dyedyeingnaturalbeginner
Notes:
Tips & Color Notes
Avocado pits give soft pink or dusty rose.
Onion skins yield warm golden to orange tones.
Hibiscus can result in purples or greys, especially when paired with iron water.
Turmeric makes a bright yellow that fades over time use with alum for better longevity.
Black Beans make a light purple or blue
Use a mordant if you want stronger, longer-lasting color but for softer shades, you can skip it.

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Troubleshooting and Safety

Colors came out lighter than expected: Natural dyes are gentler than synthetic ones and sometimes need more material or longer processing time. Try using more dye material next time, or let your yarn soak longer in the dye bath.

Uneven coloring across the yarn: Your yarn probably wasn't moving enough in the dye bath, or sections were bunched together. Keep stirring gently and regularly, and make sure the yarn can move freely in the liquid.

Color fading after washing: Your mordant step might not have worked properly, or you skipped it entirely. Pre-treating yarn with mordants helps natural dyes grab onto fibers and stay put through washing.

Dye bath smells funky after sitting: This is normal with organic materials, especially kitchen scraps. Use the dye bath quickly after making it, or strain out the plant material and freeze portions for later use.

Yarn feels rough or stiff after dyeing: Some natural materials can affect yarn texture. A gentle rinse with wool wash or hair conditioner can help restore softness.

Frequently Asked Questions

Natural fibers like wool, cotton, linen, and silk take natural dyes best. Wool is the easiest for beginners because it accepts color readily and forgives mistakes. Synthetic fibers won't take natural dyes well.
Mordants help natural dyes bond with fibers so colors don't wash out. Alum is the safest and most beginner-friendly mordant. Some materials like turmeric can dye without mordants, but the color won't last as long.
Generally use equal weight of plant material to yarn for deep colors, or half the weight for lighter shades. Kitchen scraps like onion skins are concentrated, so you need less. Save scraps in the freezer until you have enough.
Yes! The second and third dips usually give lighter, more subtle colors. Keep using the bath until you like the results or it stops giving color. Strain out plant material and store in the fridge for a few days.
With proper mordanting, natural dyes can be quite colorfast, but they're generally more sensitive to light and washing than synthetic dyes. Some colors like indigo are incredibly permanent, while others fade gracefully over time.
Onion skins give yellows and oranges, avocado pits create soft pinks, red cabbage makes blues and purples, turmeric gives bright yellow, and coffee creates browns. The exact shade depends on your water, mordant, and yarn type.

Fiber Arts Quick Guide

One page for yarn weights, needle & hook sizes, gauge basics, and quilt math. Keep within reach while you work.

Yarn weights at a glance

Weight CYC # Knit gauge (sts/4 in) • Needles US Crochet gauge (sts/4 in) • Hook
Lace033–40+ • 000–128–36+ • Steel/B–C
Fingering / Sock127–32 • 1–321–32 • B–E (2.25–3.5 mm)
Sport223–26 • 3–516–20 • E–7 (3.5–4.5 mm)
DK321–24 • 5–712–17 • 7–I (4.5–5.5 mm)
Worsted416–20 • 7–911–14 • I–K (5.5–6.5 mm)
Bulky512–15 • 9–118–11 • K–M/N (6.5–9 mm)
Super Bulky66–11 • 11–175–9 • M/N–Q (9–15 mm)
Jumbo71–6 • 17+0–5 • Q+ (15 mm+)

Always swatch. Fiber content, twist, and your tension change gauge.

Needle and hook conversions

Knitting needles (US ↔ mm)

USmm
02.00
12.25
22.75
33.25
43.50
53.75
64.00
74.50
85.00
95.50
106.00
10.56.50
118.00
139.00
1510.00

Crochet hooks (Letter ↔ mm)

Hookmm
B2.25
C2.75
D3.25
E3.50
F3.75
G4.00
74.50
H5.00
I5.50
J6.00
K6.50
L8.00
M/N9.00
N/P10.00

Gauge and swatch basics

  • Knit or crochet a 6 × 6 in swatch. Wash and lay flat to dry.
  • Measure the center 4 in square. Count stitches and rows.
  • Stitches per inch: stitches in 4 in ÷ 4. Rows per inch: rows in 4 in ÷ 4.
Cast on estimate
Cast on = target width (in) × stitches per inch + 2 edge stitches.
Rows to length = target length (in) × rows per inch.

Quilt and sewing quick math

  • Seam allowances: quilting 1/4 in • garments 5/8 in
  • Half-square triangles (HST): cut size = finished size + 7/8 in (or add 1 in and trim to square)
  • Quarter-square triangles (QST): cut size = finished size + 1 1/4 in
  • Binding estimator: total length = perimeter + 12 in; strip count = ceil(total ÷ WOF). Typical strip width 2.5 in
  • Prewash tips: prewash reds/darks. Press, square the grain, then cut.

Labeling and project notes

  • Yarn or fabric source, colorway, lot, and fiber content
  • Gauge and needle or hook size
  • Pattern name and size adjustments
  • Wash and care instructions

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